Measured and modeled wave overtopping on a natural beach     

Natalie A. Laudier  Edward B. ThorntonJamie MacMahan 《Coastal Engineering》2011

The rate of wave overtopping of a barrier beach is measured and modeled. Unique rate of wave overtopping field data are obtained from the measure of the Carmel River, California, lagoon filling during a time when the lagoon is closed-off with no river inflow. Volume changes are based on measured lagoon height changes applied to a measured hypsometric curve. Wave heights and periods are obtained from directional wave spectra data in 15 m fronting the beach. Beach morphology was measured by GPS walking surveys. Three empirical overtopping models by Van der Meer and Janssen (1995), Hedges and Reis (1998) and Pullen et al. (2007) with differing parameterizations on wave height, period and beach slope and calibrated using extensive laboratory data obtained over plane, impermeable beaches are applied in a quasi-2D manner and compared with the field observations. Three overtopping events are considered when morphology data were available less than 2 weeks prior to the event. The models are tuned to fit the data using a reduction factor to account for beach permeability, berm characteristics, non-normal wave incidence and surface roughness influence. In addition, the run-up model by Stockdon et al. (2006) based on field data is examined and found to underestimate run-up as the calculated values were too small to predict any of the observed overtopping. The three overtopping models performed similarly well with values of 0.72–0.87 for the two narrow-banded wave cases, with an average reduction factor of 0.78. The European model (Pullen et. al., 2007) performed best overall and in particular for the case of the broad-banded, double peaked wave spectrum.  相似文献   

Appraisal of storm beach buffer width for cyclonic waves     

F.-C. Lee  John R.-C. Hsu  W.-H. Lin 《Coastal Engineering》2011

The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach.  相似文献   

山东半岛北岸现代海滩层理及动态解释     

曹立华  栾天  庄振业  李兵  董威力  孙羽涵 《海洋地质前沿》2011,(9):1-5,31

海滩层理由冲、回流塑造的向海倾前滨楔状交错层理和冲越流形成的向陆倾后滨斜层理组成,二者构成假背斜构造.近年在烟台—莱州岸段海滩上开挖了10个垂岸探槽,揭示出这里海滩以向陆倾后滨层理为主,并且被暴风浪侵蚀面所斜切,该面向海的前滨层理只留下几十厘米的薄层,说明近几十年海岸持续遭受侵蚀,海滩的前滨层理被多次暴风浪切割掉;按暴...  相似文献   

砂质海滩地形动力分类研究进展     

于吉涛  陈子燊 《热带地理》2011,31(1):107-112

海滩状态是一个地形与水动力相互作用的三维地形动力问题.国外对海滩状态的地形动力分类已开展了大量卓有成效的研究工作,既包括波控、小潮、开阔海岸海滩状态的研究,也包括波控、不同潮差海岸海滩类型的研究和岬间海岸海滩类型的研究.文中回顾并概括了自20世纪70年代至今国外在砂质海滩地形动力分类方面代表性的研究工作,这些对于我国的...  相似文献   

Evolution and Morphodynamics of a Prograded Beach‐Ridge Foreland,Northern Baffin Island,Canadian Arctic Archipelago          下载免费PDF全文

Dominique St‐Hilaire‐Gravel  Donald L. Forbes  Trevor Bell 《Geografiska Annaler: Series A, Physical Geography》2015,97(3):615-631

Landward retreat (marine transgression) is a common response of coastal systems to rising relative sea level. However, given sufficient sediment supply, the coast may advance seaward. The latter response of gravel barriers has been recorded in parts of southeastern and northwestern Canada, where seaward‐rising sets of beach ridges are observed in areas of Holocene RSL rise. Cape Charles Yorke, northern Baffin Island, is a 5 km long gravel foreland characterized by seaward‐rising beach‐ridge crest elevations. The prograded morphology of the Cape Charles Yorke foreland is a prime example of coastal response to a combination of rising RSL and abundant sediment supply, an unusual and little‐documented pattern in the Canadian Arctic. The main gravel supply to Cape Charles Yorke is likely from eroding bedrock and raised marine deposits southwest of the foreland. Although not the dominant sediment source, the Cape Charles Yorke delta contributed to the formation of the foreland by sheltering it from easterly storm waves and providing an anchor point for the prograding ridges. The truncation of relict ridges by the modern shoreline suggests a recent regime shift from continuous deposition to predominant erosion. The cause and timing of this shift are unknown but could result from a recent dwindling in sediment supply, increased accommodation space, increased wave energy, and/or an accelerated rise of relative sea level.  相似文献   

海岸沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面特征研究     

张洋  邹志利  苟大荀  罗年鹏  尹晶 《海洋学报》2015,37(1):147-157

通过物理模型实验研究了海岸沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的形成和演化过程,给出了稳定的沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的几何特征。实验中考虑了两种初始坡度(1∶20和1∶10)和不同波高的规则波和不规则波,讨论了不同初始坡度海岸上破碎波空间分布特征。结果表明,沙坝产生后存在向岸和离岸两种运动形态,但最终将停留在稳定位置。稳定的沙坝剖面对应不同初始坡度和波浪存在不同的大沙坝和小沙坝分布。沙坝剖面由长时间小波高波浪序列作用后可转化为稳定滩肩剖面,该剖面不依赖于波浪和初始坡度。实验也给出了平衡剖面与理论曲线的对比以及剖面上泥沙粒径的分布。  相似文献   

深圳大鹏半岛南岸西冲海滩的沉积物来源、平面形态稳定性及横向变化   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

ZHANG Song  WANG Wei  HUANG Rihui  XU Liubing 《海洋学报(英文版)》2015,34(3):76-89

The coast of the Dapeng Peninsula has been honored as one of "the eight most beautiful coasts in China". The most precious tourism resource for the peninsula is headland bay beaches, among which the beach at Xichong on the southern coast of the peninsula is the longest and the most important one. The information of the stability, sedimentary source and shape change of the beach is very important for maintaining the beach in terms of sustainable development of the peninsula. Heavy minerals in the sand of the beach and the inland stream at Xichong are compared with those of a nearby beach on the same coast to determine the beach sand source; with help of a computer software, MEPBAY, the equilibrium planforms of the beaches on the peninsula are compared with those of an island without rivers to evaluate the stream’s effects on the beach stability; cross shore profiles along the Xichong beach are also surveyed in different seasons of a year to assess the annual shore normal beach changes affected by the stream input, and the relation between the equilibrium planform state and cross shore changes of the beach. It is shown that(1) stream is the main sedimentary source of the beach and the weathering materials of the rocky headlands on both sides of the bay transported by waves are the second source for the beach but it is limited, sand from an inner shelf is not the sedimentary source for the beach at present and was not even during the Holocene transgression;(2) the Xichong beach cannot reach static equilibrium around the entire bay shoreline, the segment of the shoreline where a stream outlet is located is in dynamic equilibrium, and the unstable section occurs in the wave shadow region in the lee of an offshore island;(3) no matter whether the section of the beach shoreline at Xichong is in an equilibrium state or not, it is eroded in the typhoon season and recovered after the season, the maximum change in erosion and accretion occurs in the unstable segment;(4) the Xichong beach can only have small sand body since it is supplied with sand mainly form inland streams, resulting in a possible danger in which sand loss induced by human activities or huge storms cannot be replenished naturally.  相似文献   

基于地形动力学的华南海滩裂流风险研究   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2       下载免费PDF全文

李志强 《热带海洋学报》2015,34(1):8-14

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浙江朱家尖岛东沙海滩对热带风暴“娜基莉”的响应及风暴后的恢复   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0  

郭俊丽  时连强  童宵岭  郑禹君  徐岱璐 《海洋学报》2018,40(9):137-147

海滩对风暴的响应及风暴后海滩的恢复过程一直以来都是国内外海滩研究的热点。本文通过对浙江舟山市朱家尖岛东沙海滩地形地貌的现场调查，对比分析了热带风暴"娜基莉"影响下东沙海滩剖面的蚀积变化，探讨了海滩在热带风暴发生后的恢复情况。结果表明，在"娜基莉"影响期间，因风暴浪为向岸浪，东沙海滩几乎遭受全线侵蚀，12个剖面单宽侵蚀总量为73.46 m3/m，其中海滩直线段较两个遮蔽段侵蚀显著。由于海滩在风暴前进方向的左侧，且"娜基莉"距东沙较远，使得东沙海滩普遍侵蚀但强度较小。东沙海滩在热带风暴后的恢复过程中，不同部位的地貌调整和冲淤变化不同，下岬角遮蔽段基本趋于稳定，直线段和上岬角遮蔽段在恢复过程中因受海滩季节性调整的影响呈现持续侵蚀。  相似文献   

基于连岛沙坝原理设计的海滩排水管头地貌稳定性研究     

董标  蔡锋  金保明  刘建辉  雷刚 《海洋工程》2018,36(1):128-137

海滩排水管建设对海滩环境影响较大。以厦门会展中心连岛沙坝式排水管头工程影响海滩演变为例,研究连岛沙坝式海滩排水管头对海滩地形稳定性和沉积的影响。1)通过对研究区连岛沙坝式管头附近海滩10条剖面进行分析,研究管头附近海滩滩肩宽度、滩面坡度和单宽留存沙量等剖面形态变化特征。测量数据分析表明,无管头保护滩面高程降低,滩面坡度总体变陡,滩肩蚀退严重;受管头保护滩面高程上升,坡度变缓,滩肩宽度略有减小,剖面单宽沙量留存比例大于1。2)2012-2016年多期岸线及管头边界线变化结果表明,工程施工后,排水管身始终被沙体覆盖,一年后部分管头被沙体覆盖,最终管头被覆盖率稳定在70%以上。3)会展管头附近海滩潮上带和高潮带沉积物自北向南运移,低潮带则相反;潮上带和中潮带上部沉积物从管头所在"连岛沙坝"向两侧海滩输移,而低潮带和中潮带下部输移方向相反。沉积物粒径由岸向海逐渐变粗,越靠近管头,沉积物粒径呈变细趋势。最后讨论了引起管头局部海滩地形地貌变化的主要因素。  相似文献